Please bear with me as I ask you to briefly use your imagination.
Close your eyes. Imagine Machu Picchu at dawn cloaked in fog. Now
imagine the fog slowly lifting to reveal an enormous ancient city
perched on the edge of a mountain.
Picture a sense of
mystery being immersed in thousands of years of history as you walk
between antiquated hewn stone structures. There is tranquility in the
wind-blown stillness of the primeval site. You feel a renewed sense of
kinship with the past and with your ancestors and feel a deep reverence
for their lives and accomplishments.
Now imagine the menacing
sound of bulldozers closing in and men at work. Their heavy machinery
rattles the ground. You hear workers rigging dynamite to these massive
stone structures. There is a brief lull and then the deafening blow of
multiple explosions as Machu Picchu is razed to the ground.
Be at ease, Machu Piccu
is a UNESCO protected site. But a very similar 2,600-year-old Buddhist
site in Logar province, Afghanistan isn't so lucky.
This site is called Mes
Aynak and is nothing short of awe-inspiring: a massive walled-in
Buddhist city featuring massive temples, monasteries, and thousands of
Buddhist statues that managed to survive looters and the Taliban.
Holding a key position on the Silk Road, Mes Aynak was also an
international hub for traders and pilgrims from all over Asia.
Locals from relocated villages near Mes Aynak remove dirt and rocks to expose buried artifacts. |
Mes Aynak is set for
destruction at the end of December 2012. All of the temples,
monasteries, statues as well as the Bronze age material will all be
destroyed by a Chinese government-owned company called China
Metallurgical Group Corporation (MCC). Six villages and the mountain
range will also be destroyed to create a massive open-pit style copper
mine.
In 2007, MCC outbid
competitors with a $3 billion bid to lease the area for 30 years. MCC
plans to extract over $100 billion worth of copper located directly
beneath the Buddhist site. Ironically, the Buddhists were also mining
for copper albeit in a more primitive fashion.
MCC says they weren't
told about the archaeology site's existence until after the contract was
signed. Following significant international pressure and perhaps
sensing an impending PR nightmare, MCC in 2009 gave archaeologists three
years to attempt to excavate the site.
Archaeologists say they need at least 30 years to do the job but had no choice but to accept MCCs brief timetable. Specialists on site are working with extremely limited funding and the crudest of tools.
Afghan archaeologists,
who do the majority of the excavation, don't have access to computers or
digital cameras and have been sleeping on the floor in a wooden shack
when staying on the site overnight.
Today, three teams of international archaeologists led by DAFA, a French archaeological delegation,
scramble to save as many relics as they can. These experts are
performing rushed rescue archeology, which focuses on removing movable
objects and not on preserving structures.
A gold-plated Buddha head found at Mes Aynak. A team of international archaeologists is scrambling to save relics. |
In July, a Logar worker
unearthed a landmine that exploded in his face. Later that month, four
Afghan policemen were killed by a landmine on the road leading to the
archaeology site.
I am often asked, "Why save it? It is, after all, just another remnant of the past, right?" Wrong.
Mes Aynak is the missing
link that shows Afghanistan's interconnectivity throughout Asia on the
Silk Road. Afghanistan needs to see the value of learning its own
cultural history as too often the country's story is co-opted by the
lens of another.
Afghans need to claim
their cultural significance in the world for current and new
generations. And the findings at Mes Aynak will be the key to doing
that.
In addition to Mes
Aynak's historical significance, the site is breathtaking to behold in
person. I can't help but feel privileged and honored to have been able
to set foot inside its ancient walls, to have been able to bare witness
to massive Buddhas, many of which are still coated in gold paint
overlooking their ancient city.
These statues have
miraculously survived looting, survived the intense heat and cold, and
survived over three decades of continuous war.
There is a magic to Mes
Aynak -- an ability to draw in people from around the world who will
risk their lives to save it. I fell in love with this ancient site and
will do everything in my power to try to help save it.
People work at one of the many archaeological excavation sites at Mes Aynak. In 2009, the mining company gave archaeologists three years to excavate the site. |
Imagine someone
bulldozing your grandparents' graves and blowing up their cemetery. How
could the world look away letting such crime happen in the name of
capitalism?
Unfortunately, Mes Aynak
has gained some powerful enemies. MCC, The World Bank and Afghan
ministries all want mining to start ASAP.
In my opinion, they want
Mes Aynak to set a precedent -- to be a model for resource extraction
of the one trillion dollars plus of valuable minerals like oil, copper,
lithium and iron buried underneath Afghanistan.
According to
archaeologists that I spoke with, every mining location holds cultural
heritage. On every potential mine lies an ancient site like Mes Aynak.
So, even worse than the senseless destruction of Mes Aynak, is the
thought that this kind of cheap destructive process will be replicated
all across Afghanistan.
I often hear talk about mineral extraction being somehow good for Afghanistan, but I promise you this is not the case.
I often hear talk about mineral extraction being somehow good for Afghanistan, but I promise you this is not the case.
Given the country's out
of control corruption there are a privileged few who will see any payout
from such endeavors. Afghan citizens have absolutely nothing to gain
from this copper mine or any other international extractive industry.
I believe Chinese will
bring in their own laborers to manage the mine and Afghans will be given
only low level and terribly paid positions working in slave-like
conditions.
And I have said nothing
about the environmental devastation. Many mining experts have told me
the toxic pollution from the mine will likely turn Mes Aynak into a site
so toxic that in the future people will be advised against even setting
foot on the ground. They tell me this pollution will be permanent,
rivers will be polluted and the toxins will travel to other areas -- and
the locals have never been educated about these risks to the area.
So not only will
Afghanistan lose an ancient site, a key to unlocking its important
history, but the country will lose the land and everything living on it.
And what happens when Afghanistan needs copper or oil or iron for its
own development? Will they have to buy it back from China at inflated
rates?
My fear is that in the
future Afghanistan will consist of hundreds of these gaping toxic
craters and the resources the country needs for its own development will
be lost. Afghans will see no benefit. They will suffer from
irreversible environmental devastation and the permanent loss of
invaluable cultural heritage.
So as a final request I
want you to close your eyes once again. Imagine a city-sized toxic
crater in the ground where the majestic Machu Picchu once stood. That
sight, unfortunately, is the future of Mes Aynak unless we do something
to stop it. By Brent Huffman
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